FIVE FAVORITE FATS


Fats can be transformative in cooking. Take the story of American culinary legend James Beard: vexed over a tomato sauce he just couldn’t get right, he hastily reached for a stick of butter, lobbed it into the pot, gave it a stir, and declared the recipe divine.

Luckily, you needn’t be as generous with the butter knife as Beard to see the effect of fat on food. Consider, for example, how a small knob of butter elevates a plate of steamed vegetables or a drizzle of olive oil flavors a tangle of spaghetti. Simple food goes from plain to plainly delicious in one fell swoop.

Fat brings flavor and it also delivers nutrients. The essential vitamins A, D, E, and K are carried in fat, along with heart-healthy Omega-3s, and other essential fatty acids. Another benefit is that fats are slow to digest, which means they keep us feeling satiated longer. This is a good thing since fats also come at a price. Some fats are heartbreakers, literally, since they are high in cholesterol-raising saturated fat. And all fats are calorically dense; a mere tablespoon packs roughly 100 to 120 calories. A recipe calling for a half cup of olive oil, for example, adds a staggering 900 calories to the equation.

The positive news is, fats are so mega flavorful, a little goes go along way. I routinely cut the amount in recipes with terrific results. Baking is a little trickier since chemistry is involved, and simply eliminating fat without making other adjustments often goes bust.

And so I thought I’d share a bit about fat today, specifically, five of my favorites, their highpoints and uses. As an aside, be sure to store oils in a cool, dark place, and avoid buying them in large quantities since they do go rancid over time. Butter, of course, belongs in the fridge, though I always have a pound in the freezer for chocolate chip cookie emergencies.

1. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil – I’d be scared to know how much of this passes through my pantry in a year’s time; it’s my “go to” for salads, sautés, pastas, vegetables dishes, you name it. Opting for “extra-virgin” is a must since it means superior taste, fewer impurities, and a better nutritional profile. It’s very high in “heart healthy” monounsaturated fats along with a host of antioxidants. When I’m feeling flush and fancy, I buy California, organic, but sometimes the price tag has me reaching for conventional.

2. Canola Oil – This neutral tasting, pale-colored oil is the standard in much of my baking. Like olive oil, it’s high in monounsaturated fat. Consider opting for “organic, expeller-pressed” canola oil since conventional undoubtedly comes from a GMO crop and is often processed using chemical solvents.

3. Good Old-Fashioned Butter – As someone who begged my parents to buy tubbed margarine as a kid (to no avail) I now appreciate the beauty of butter. The downside? It’s high in saturated fat. The key is to use it caringly and sparingly. Just a tablespoon over a big plate of vegetables or in a pot of pureed soup is often all that’s needed. For baking, I sometimes scale back the butter and up the amount of oil or another liquid, say yogurt or orange juice. My fridge is always stocked with a container of whipped butter, which is easy for the kids to spread and has about half the calories per tablespoon of regular butter (thanks to all the air whipped in there). When I really want a treat, I’ll indulge in good-quality, salty Irish butter and love every smear.

4. Toasted Sesame Oil – Sesame oil tends to come in small bottles, often sold in the Asian section of supermarkets. Look for the words, “toasted” since it packs a deeper taste and aroma. Just a few drops added to a vegetable stir-fry, dabbled over a Vietnamese-style cabbage salad, or stirred into a dish of rice with scallions adds enormous flavor and richness.

5. Grapeseed Oil – Technically a fruit oil, this mild tasting option is pressed from grape seeds, often ones that are the bi-product of wine making. It’s the newest addition to my repertoire, one I learned from my brother, the chef. Its best feature is a high smoke point, which means you can bring the temperature up without setting off the smoke alarm, perfect for pan-searing a pork chop or frying a breaded cutlet of fish.

What’s your favorite fat?

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8  Comments

Comments

  1. 05.31.2012 at 8:00 AM #

    Such great information. I love your site and newsletters!

    • katiemorford
      05.31.2012 at 9:56 AM #

      Likewise, Catherine. Salivating over that PBJ.

  2. Pamela
    05.31.2012 at 10:17 AM #

    I read every word with much interest~~~ I always learn something important when I read your blog.Thank you Katie!

  3. Mary Ellen
    06.06.2012 at 10:17 AM #

    I’ve read that for sauteing and grilling to use regular, not extra virgin, olive oil due to the the low smoke point for the extra virgin. What’s your take, Kate?

    • katiemorford
      06.06.2012 at 10:55 AM #

      Good question Mary Ellen. Olive oil labeled “pure” or “light” are processed using chemicals and/or heat and also lack the antioxidant benefits of cold-pressed extra-virgin oil. I use extra-virgin when I both saute and grill and find it works just fine. For very high heat pan searing or frying, I’d use grape seed oil or another vegetable oil over non-virgin olive oil.

  4. 08.23.2013 at 7:06 AM #

    Olive oil and butter are regular features in my kitchen, and you’ve inspired me to try toasted sesame oil. Another new fat I’ve been experimenting with is coconut oil. I’m not claiming it’s healthy! It’s healthiest use is probably in making an exfoliating scrub with sea salt. It’s high in saturated fat for sure, but it’s taste is divine! I just used it in a pineapple upside down cake–yum! Have you played with coconut oil?

    • katiemorford
      08.23.2013 at 8:16 AM #

      Oh good…just a little goes a long way with sesame oil.

    • katiemorford
      10.25.2013 at 12:07 PM #

      I just realized I didn’t answer your question. I know that coconut oil is really popular these days. I have not experimented with it much, but do think it would add wonderful flavor to something like your cake. I worry that it has developed a little bit of a “healthy halo” and that folks are downing it like water. The fact remains that while some of the fats in coconut oil don’t have a negative impact on heart healthy, it is still highly saturated and like all fats, high in calorie. So, sure, include it in your repertoire, but know that it needs to be used in balance and moderation, like all fats.

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